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Hyundai · 3rd gen (DM/NC) (DM) · 2013–2018

Hyundai Santa Fe (2013–2018): Problems, Reliability & Repair Costs

The 2013–2018 Santa Fe is roomy, well-equipped, and cheap to buy used — but the engine you get decides everything. The Santa Fe Sport's 2.0T and 2.4 Theta II four-cylinders are the ones tied to Hyundai's massive connecting-rod-bearing failure recall and warranty extension. The bigger Santa Fe / XL with the 3.3L V6 largely sidesteps that and is the smarter buy. Layered on top is a separate ABS-module fire recall that affected most of the lineup.

5/10 CarCaseFile
reliability score

Engines

  • Theta II 2.4 GDI — 2.4L gasoline, 190 hp
  • Theta II 2.0T GDI — 2.0L turbo gasoline, 240 hp
  • Lambda II 3.3 GDI — 3.3L V6 gasoline, 290 hp

Transmissions

  • automatic , 6-speed

Drivetrain

FWD / AWD

Body

SUV (5-passenger, Santa Fe Sport), SUV (3-row 7-passenger, Santa Fe / XL)

Should you buy a 2013–2018 Hyundai Santa Fe?

Buy the V6, scrutinize the four-cylinder. The three-row Santa Fe / XL with the 3.3L V6 is a genuinely good used-SUV value — comfortable, well-equipped, and free of the Theta II engine recall that defines this generation's reputation. The Santa Fe Sport (2.4 and 2.0T) carries real risk: those Theta II engines are the ones tied to connecting-rod-bearing failure and engine seizure. They're not all doomed — Hyundai extended the warranty to 10 years / 120,000 miles and added knock-sensor software — but on a Sport you must confirm the KSDS update is done and the warranty status before you buy. Separately, almost every Santa Fe in these years is touched by an ABS-module fire recall; make sure it's been performed.

Best years

2017, 2018, Any 3.3 V6 (Santa Fe / XL) over a Sport

Years to avoid

2013–2014 Santa Fe Sport 2.0T/2.4 (worst bearing-failure exposure), Any Sport without a documented KSDS update or warranty status

Pre-purchase inspection checklist

  • ☐Identify the engine first: Santa Fe Sport = 2.4 or 2.0T Theta II (recall risk); three-row Santa Fe / XL = 3.3 V6 (much safer).
  • ☐On any Sport, have a Hyundai dealer check the VIN: is the KSDS knock-sensor software installed, and is the engine warranty-extension coverage still active?
  • ☐Listen for a deep knock or rod-knock rumble on a cold start and again at light load — the classic precursor to Theta II bearing failure.
  • ☐Check the oil level on the dipstick and ask the seller how often they top off; 3–4 quarts burned between changes is a documented Theta II/GDI problem.
  • ☐Confirm the ABS/HECU fire recall (NHTSA 23V-651, Hyundai Recall 251) has been completed — the multi-fuse replacement.
  • ☐Turn the wheel lock-to-lock at low speed and listen for clicking/clunking from the steering column, a common complaint.
  • ☐Inspect the paint, especially the roof and hood, for clear-coat peeling on white and silver cars.
  • ☐Test-drive for harsh or shuddering automatic shifts; verify transmission fluid has been serviced.

Common Hyundai Santa Fe problems & repair costs

Theta II connecting-rod-bearing failure (engine seizure)

$4,000–$7,500
engine severe 2013–2018 Santa Fe Sport (2.4 & 2.0T) ~60k–130k mi

Symptoms: A deep knocking or rod-knock rumble that worsens with miles, a blinking engine light with reduced power (engine protection mode), metal in the oil, and ultimately stalling or a seized engine. The KSDS software triggers code P1326 when it detects the early knock pattern.

Fix: Engine (short-block or full) replacement. Hyundai extended the powertrain warranty on affected 2013–2018 Santa Fe Sport engines to 10 years / 120,000 miles for connecting-rod-bearing damage, transferable to later owners, and many engines were replaced free. Get the KSDS knock-sensor software installed — it's a recall and is often required for the warranty claim. Out of coverage, a reman engine is the realistic fix.

Sources: NHTSA — 2014 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport vehicle/complaints, Hyundai newsroom — Sonata/Santa Fe Sport engine recall & software update, NHTSA — Sonata/Santa Fe Sport GDI engine inspection recall 17V226

ABS / HECU module fire risk

$0–$0
brakes/electrical safety 2013–2015 & 2016–2018 Santa Fe; 2017–2018 Sport

Symptoms: An internal brake-fluid leak inside the ABS module can cause an electrical short and an engine-compartment fire — even while parked and turned off. There may be no warning before a fire.

Fix: Covered by recall (NHTSA 23V-651 / Hyundai Recall 251): the dealer installs a redesigned multi-fuse that cuts current before a short ignites. Free of charge. Owners were advised to park outside and away from structures until repaired. Verify completion by VIN before buying.

Sources: NHTSA — Safety Recall Report 23V-651 (ABS fire risk), NHTSA — Consumer alert: Hyundai Santa Fe recall fire risk

Excessive oil consumption (GDI)

$150–$600
engine moderate 2013–2018

Symptoms: Burning 3–4 quarts of oil between changes with no obvious external leak. Low oil accelerates bearing wear on the Theta II engines and can foul the catalytic converter over time.

Fix: Confirm consumption with a documented oil-consumption test (often a precursor to warranty engine work on Sport models). Otherwise it becomes an ownership cost: monitor and top off between changes; severe cases need ring/engine work, which on a Sport may fall under the bearing-failure warranty extension.

Sources: TheWeeklyDriver — 2013-2018 Santa Fe engine problems & reliability, Consumer Reports — 2018 Hyundai Santa Fe reliability

Steering column clunk / clicking noise

$300–$900
steering moderate 2013–2016

Symptoms: A clicking or loud clunking noise from the steering column when turning, especially at low speed. Owners filed dozens of complaints; most cases are noise-only, but a smaller number report harsher steering-column concerns.

Fix: Diagnosis points most often to the steering U-joint/coupler or the column itself. Many cars were addressed under TSB; out of coverage it's a coupler or column-component replacement plus labor.

Sources: CarComplaints — 2014 Santa Fe steering

Clear-coat / paint peeling

$500–$3,000
body minor 2013–2018

Symptoms: Clear coat flaking and paint peeling, most reported on white and silver cars and on horizontal panels (roof, hood). Cosmetic, but spreads if ignored.

Fix: Body-shop refinish of the affected panels. A few cars were handled under goodwill; most owners pay out of pocket, and cost scales with how many panels are involved.

Sources: Hyundaiproblems.com — 3rd-gen (2013-2018) Santa Fe problems

Two very different ownership stories live in this generation. A 3.3 V6 Santa Fe / XL is a sensible, moderate-cost SUV — normal brakes, tires, fluids, and a robust V6, with GDI oil consumption the main thing to watch. A Santa Fe Sport carries the Theta II tail risk: if the bearing-failure warranty extension has lapsed and the engine goes, you're looking at a $4,000–$7,500 engine on a vehicle that may be worth less than that. Across the board, budget for the recalls being done (they're free) and routine wear; the financial swing is almost entirely about which engine you bought and whether the Sport's warranty coverage is intact.

DIY repairs & parts

Engine + cabin air filter replacement

easy 20–30 min saves ~$60–$120

Tools: No tools for the airbox (clips), Screwdriver for the glovebox stops if needed

  1. Unclip the airbox lid, lift it, and note how the old panel filter sits.
  2. Drop in the new engine air filter the same way and re-clip the lid.
  3. Open the glovebox, release the side stops so it drops fully, and pull the cabin-filter cover.
  4. Slide out the old cabin filter; insert the new one with the airflow arrow pointing down.
  5. Close everything up and confirm airflow at the vents.

Parts

Front brake pads & rotors

moderate 1.5–2.5 hrs saves ~$150–$300

Tools: Floor jack + jack stands, Lug + caliper socket set, C-clamp or caliper piston tool, Torque wrench, Brake cleaner

  1. Loosen lug nuts, raise the front, support on stands, and remove the wheels.
  2. Unbolt the caliper, hang it from the suspension (don't stress the hose), and remove the old pads and bracket.
  3. Slide off the old rotor; clean the new rotor's surface with brake cleaner.
  4. Compress the caliper piston, fit the new rotor and pads, and reassemble with the bracket and caliper torqued to spec.
  5. Reinstall wheels, lower the car, and pump the brake pedal firm before driving; bed in the pads gently.

Parts

Some parts links are affiliate links — we may earn a commission at no cost to you. We only list parts that fit this generation.

The short version

The 2013–2018 Hyundai Santa Fe is two stories wearing one badge. Get the engine identification right and you’ll understand almost everything about the risk.

The Santa Fe Sport is the five-seat version with Hyundai’s Theta II four-cylinders — the 2.4 GDI or the 2.0T. Those are the engines at the center of Hyundai’s enormous connecting-rod-bearing failure problem: bearings wear early, the engine knocks, then it can seize or stall. It got bad enough that Hyundai extended the warranty on these engines to 10 years / 120,000 miles and rolled out knock-sensor (KSDS) software that throws code P1326 when it hears the early failure pattern.

The three-row Santa Fe / Santa Fe XL uses the 3.3L V6, which is not part of that recall and is the durable choice in this generation.

What that means when you’re shopping

If you’re looking at a Sport, treat the engine as the first thing to clear. Have a Hyundai dealer check the VIN: is the KSDS software installed, and is the bearing-failure warranty extension still active? A documented, in-coverage Sport is a reasonable buy; an out-of-warranty one with an unknown engine history is a gamble, because a replacement engine can cost more than the car.

If you’re looking at a 3.3 V6 Santa Fe / XL, you’ve sidestepped the headline risk. Buy it on condition and maintenance like any used SUV — just keep an eye on oil consumption, which the GDI engines are prone to.

One thing applies to almost the whole lineup: the ABS-module fire recall (NHTSA 23V-651). The fix is a free fuse, but until it’s done Hyundai literally tells owners to park outside. Confirm it’s been performed. The rest — steering-column clunks, clear-coat peeling, the occasional harsh shift — is ordinary used-Hyundai stuff and shouldn’t scare you off a sound car.

How this file is built: failure modes and cost ranges are compiled from NHTSA complaint and recall data, Hyundai’s own recall and warranty-extension actions, owner reporting, and reliability sources, then sanity-checked against shop-floor experience. Cost figures are independent-shop estimates and vary by region. Spot something off? Tell us.

Viral car myths, checked

Frequently asked questions

Which Hyundai Santa Fe years and engines should I avoid?

Be most careful with the 2013–2014 Santa Fe Sport (2.0T and 2.4 Theta II), which has the worst exposure to connecting-rod-bearing failure. The three-row Santa Fe / XL with the 3.3L V6 is not part of that recall and is the safer used buy across all these years.

Is the Theta II engine failure covered by Hyundai?

Yes, for affected vehicles. Hyundai extended the powertrain warranty on 2013–2018 Santa Fe Sport engines to 10 years / 120,000 miles for connecting-rod-bearing damage, and it transfers to later owners. Coverage usually requires the KSDS knock-sensor software to be installed. Verify the VIN's status with a Hyundai dealer before buying a Sport.

What is the Santa Fe fire recall about?

Recall 23V-651 (Hyundai Recall 251) covers an ABS/HECU module that can leak brake fluid internally, short out, and start an engine-compartment fire — even while parked. The fix is a free redesigned multi-fuse. Until it's done, Hyundai advises parking outside and away from buildings. Confirm the recall is complete by VIN.

Is the Santa Fe Sport or the regular Santa Fe better?

For reliability, the regular three-row Santa Fe / XL with the 3.3 V6 is the stronger pick — it avoids the Theta II bearing recall entirely. The Sport drives a bit tighter and the 2.0T is quicker, but it carries the engine risk that defines this generation. Buy the Sport only with documented KSDS software and warranty status.

Does the Santa Fe burn oil?

The direct-injection engines in these years are known for it — some owners burn 3–4 quarts between changes. On a Sport, document the consumption, since it can tie into the engine warranty. On any of them, check the oil regularly; running low accelerates bearing wear.