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Ford · 2nd gen (CD4) · 2013–2020

Ford Fusion (2013–2020): Problems, Reliability & Repair Costs

The second-gen Fusion looks like a lot of car for the money — sharp styling, comfortable, a long engine menu — and it can be a good buy. But the EcoBoost turbo engines have a real coolant-intrusion problem that can kill the motor, and this generation carried a stack of safety recalls (brake hoses, steering, a roll-away shifter bushing). Buy the right drivetrain with the recalls done and it's fine; buy blind and you can inherit an expensive mess.

5/10 CarCaseFile
reliability score

Engines

  • Duratec 2.5L — 2.5L gasoline, 175 hp
  • 1.5L EcoBoost — 1.5L gasoline, 181 hp
  • 1.6L EcoBoost — 1.6L gasoline, 178 hp
  • 2.0L EcoBoost — 2.0L gasoline, 240 hp
  • 2.0L Atkinson hybrid — 2.0L hybrid, 188 hp
  • 2.0L Energi PHEV — 2.0L phev, 188 hp

Transmissions

  • 6F35 — automatic, 6-speed
  • HF35 (eCVT) — cvt

Drivetrain

FWD / AWD

Body

sedan

Should you buy a 2013–2020 Ford Fusion?

Buy on drivetrain and paperwork, not on looks. The safest used Fusion is a 2.5L non-turbo SE or a Fusion Hybrid — both sidestep the EcoBoost coolant-intrusion problem that can total the engine. The 1.5L and 2.0L EcoBoost cars can be great when healthy, but you must confirm no coolant loss and check whether Ford's short-block/long-block coverage was ever used. The 1.6L EcoBoost (mostly 2013–2014) is the one to be most careful with — its cylinder-head/engine-fire recall (14V438) must be documented as completed. On top of the engine, this whole generation needs three safety recalls verified as done: front brake hoses, the power-steering corrosion fix, and the roll-away shifter-cable bushing. A clean later-year (2017–2018) car with all recalls closed is a reasonable buy.

Best years

2017, 2018, Fusion Hybrid (any year, recalls done), 2.5L non-turbo cars

Years to avoid

2013 (worst complaint year; 1.6L EcoBoost fire recall era), 2014 (high complaints; early 1.5L/1.6L EcoBoost), Any EcoBoost with unexplained coolant loss

Pre-purchase inspection checklist

  • ☐On any EcoBoost (1.5L/1.6L/2.0L): check the coolant level and look for slow, unexplained coolant loss with no external leak — the classic coolant-intrusion tell. White exhaust smoke or a rough/misfiring idle is a red flag to walk away.
  • ☐Scan for codes before buying. P0300/P0301-P0304 (misfires), P1299 (cylinder head overtemp), or P1285 point to coolant intrusion on EcoBoost cars.
  • ☐Run the VIN on Ford's recall lookup (or NHTSA) and confirm the brake-hose (23S12), power-steering corrosion, and shifter-cable-bushing recalls are all marked completed.
  • ☐On the 1.6L EcoBoost specifically, confirm recall 14V438 (cylinder-head/engine-fire) was performed.
  • ☐Set the shifter to Park on a slight incline, release the brake, and make sure the car actually holds — the bushing defect can leave it not truly in Park.
  • ☐Test power steering at low speed for sudden heaviness or a warning light, especially on cars from salt-belt states.
  • ☐On Hybrid/Energi, ask about 12V battery replacements and any high-voltage battery warnings; check that the dash hybrid system shows full function.
  • ☐Test the MyFord Touch / SYNC screen and all door latches (a known latch-recall area on some Ford models of the era).

Common Ford Fusion problems & repair costs

EcoBoost coolant intrusion (1.5L / 1.6L / 2.0L)

$4,000–$8,000
engine severe 2013–2020 (EcoBoost turbo engines) ~60k–120k mi

Symptoms: Coolant level slowly drops with no visible leak under the car; rough running, misfires, or a check-engine light (codes like P0300/P0301-P0304, P1299); white exhaust smoke and overheating in later stages. Caused by the open-deck block design letting coolant seep into a cylinder.

Fix: Ford's fix is replacing the short block (1.5L) or long block (2.0L) plus gaskets. Ford issued TSBs and extended short-block coverage to 7 years / 84,000 miles for coolant-intrusion damage on affected cars — verify the VIN before paying out of pocket. Out of coverage, this is a major engine job and can approach the car's value.

Sources: NHTSA TSB — 1.5L EcoBoost coolant intrusion (MC-10174400), NHTSA TSB — 2.0L EcoBoost coolant intrusion (MC-10169807), CarComplaints — Ford Fusion engine

1.6L EcoBoost cylinder-head cracking / fire risk (recall 14V438)

$0–$5,000
engine safety 2013–2014 (1.6L EcoBoost) ~varies

Symptoms: Coolant loss leading to localized cylinder-head overheating; cracked head, overheating, and in some reported cases engine compartment fires. Often shows up first as disappearing coolant and a temperature warning.

Fix: Covered by NHTSA recall 14V438000 for 2013–2014 Fusion/Escape 1.6L. If completed, the recall remedy is free — confirm it was done. If the engine was already damaged before the fix, repair cost can be substantial.

Sources: FordProblems — 2nd-gen Fusion engine issues, CarComplaints — Ford Fusion engine

Front brake hose rupture (recall 23S12)

$0–$300
brakes safety 2013–2018

Symptoms: Brake fluid warning light, a softer/longer brake pedal, and increased stopping distance as a front brake hose ruptures and leaks fluid.

Fix: Ford recalled over 1.2 million Fusion/MKZ sedans (recall 23S12) to replace front brake hoses free of charge. Verify the recall is closed; if you're paying privately, hose replacement is inexpensive but a leak is a safety issue — don't drive it.

Sources: Ford — 23S12 Front Brake Hose Recall, Consumer Reports — Fusion/MKZ brake recall

Roll-away shifter cable bushing

$0–$200
transmission safety 2013–2016

Symptoms: The shifter shows Park but the transmission may not actually be in Park, with no warning — the car can roll away. Caused by a shift-cable bushing that degrades and detaches.

Fix: Multiple recalls (2018/2019 and the broad 2022 22S43 campaign) cover replacing the under-hood shift bushing and adding a protective cap. Free under recall. Always set the parking brake on these cars and confirm the recall is done.

Sources: Ford Authority — 2013-2016 Fusion shift-cable bushing recall, Consumer Reports — Ford rollaway recall

Electric power steering failure (corrosion recall)

$0–$1,200
steering 2013–2016

Symptoms: Sudden heavy steering, especially at low speed, sometimes with a power-steering warning light. On salt-belt cars, attachment bolts on the steering gear motor can corrode and let the motor detach.

Fix: Ford's recall (19S26) for 2013–2016 Fusion/MKZ in salt states replaces the steering-gear motor bolts and adds a wax sealer; if bolts are broken, the gear is replaced — free under recall. A non-recall EPAS failure can run into four figures, so confirm the recall status.

Sources: Consumer Reports — Ford steering recall, FordProblems — 2nd-gen Fusion steering

Harsh / delayed shifting (6F35 automatic)

$250–$2,500
transmission moderate 2013–2018 (gas engines, 2.5L common)

Symptoms: Hard, clunky, or delayed shifts; a brief flare of RPM before the gear engages; occasional shudder. Most concentrated on the 2.5L cars.

Fix: Start with a proper transmission fluid service and a software/TCM update — that resolves many cases. Persistent hard shifting can mean valve-body or internal repair, which is far more expensive. Confirm fluid history before buying.

Sources: FordProblems — 2nd-gen Fusion transmission, RepairPal — Ford Fusion problems

Battery drain / 12V & hybrid battery complaints

$200–$4,000
electrical moderate 2013–2020 (Hybrid/Energi heavily represented)

Symptoms: Dead 12V battery, no-start, or repeated battery replacements; on hybrids, high-voltage battery warnings and reduced economy. The 2017 model year drew a cluster of dead-battery complaints.

Fix: A bad 12V battery or parasitic drain is cheap to chase down. A failing high-voltage hybrid pack is the expensive case and can run into the thousands — factor it into any Hybrid/Energi purchase and ask for battery health/history.

Sources: FordProblems — 2nd-gen Fusion Hybrid, RepairPal — Ford Fusion problems

A healthy 2.5L Fusion is cheap to run — ordinary maintenance, common parts, no turbo. The cost picture changes fast on the EcoBoost cars: if coolant intrusion hits outside Ford's extended coverage, you're looking at thousands for a short- or long-block. The good news is that three of this car's scariest items — brake hoses, steering corrosion, and the roll-away shifter bushing — are recall items that are free to fix if you make the dealer close them out. Budget normal money for brakes, fluids, and a possible transmission service; budget big only for an at-risk turbo engine or a tired hybrid pack.

DIY repairs & parts

Replace the engine air filter and cabin air filter

easy 20–30 min saves ~$60–$120

Tools: Flat screwdriver (clips), Shop towel

  1. Pop the airbox clips on top of the engine, lift the lid, and lift out the old panel air filter.
  2. Wipe out the airbox, drop in the new filter the same orientation, and re-clip the lid.
  3. For the cabin filter, open the glovebox and release the side stops or damper so it drops fully down.
  4. Slide out the cabin filter housing cover, remove the old filter, and insert the new one with the airflow arrow pointing down.
  5. Snap everything back and confirm the glovebox closes squarely.

Parts

Replace front brake pads

moderate 1.5–2.5 hrs saves ~$150–$300

Tools: Floor jack + jack stands, Lug wrench / breaker bar, Socket set + caliper bolt sockets, C-clamp or caliper piston tool, Brake cleaner

  1. Loosen the lug nuts, lift the front, set jack stands, and remove the wheels.
  2. Unbolt the caliper, lift it off, and hang it from the spring so the brake hose isn't stressed (note the recall — inspect the hose while you're in there).
  3. Slide out the old pads and compress the caliper piston with a C-clamp or piston tool.
  4. Fit the new pads with any included hardware/shims, reinstall the caliper, and torque the bolts to spec.
  5. Remount the wheels, torque the lugs, then pump the brake pedal until firm before driving.

Parts

Coolant intrusion spot-check (EcoBoost)

easy 15 min saves ~diagnostic peace of mind

Tools: OBD-II code reader, Flashlight

  1. With the engine cold, check the coolant level against the min/max marks and note it.
  2. Plug in an OBD-II reader and scan for stored/pending codes — flag P0300/P0301-P0304, P1285, or P1299.
  3. Start the car and watch the tailpipe for white smoke that doesn't clear, and listen/feel for a rough misfiring idle.
  4. Re-check coolant after a few drive cycles; a level that keeps dropping with no external leak is the coolant-intrusion warning sign.

Parts

Some parts links are affiliate links — we may earn a commission at no cost to you. We only list parts that fit this generation.

The short version

The second-generation Ford Fusion is a genuinely nice car to sit in and look at — and a genuinely mixed bag to own. The story splits by engine. The naturally aspirated 2.5L and the Hybrid are the safe picks. The turbocharged EcoBoost engines (1.5L, 1.6L, 2.0L) carry a real coolant-intrusion problem: the block design can let coolant seep into a cylinder, which leads to misfires, overheating, and a dead engine. It was widespread enough that Ford issued service bulletins and extended short-block coverage to 7 years / 84,000 miles.

On top of that, this generation collected a stack of safety recalls — front brake hoses that can rupture, a power-steering corrosion issue, and a shifter-cable bushing that can leave the car not actually in Park. None of those should scare you off a car where the recalls are closed, but all of them matter if they aren’t.

What that means when you’re shopping

Lead with the engine. A 2.5L SE or a Fusion Hybrid sidesteps the most expensive failure on the whole car. If you want the 1.5L or 2.0L EcoBoost, treat coolant level as the first thing to clear: coolant that vanishes with no puddle is the warning sign, and a quick OBD-II scan for misfire and overheat codes tells you a lot before you hand over money. Be most careful with the early 1.6L EcoBoost (2013–2014) — its cylinder-head/fire recall (14V438) must be documented as done.

Then run the VIN. Ford’s recall lookup will show whether the brake-hose (23S12), steering, and roll-away shifter-bushing recalls are closed. These are free fixes, so there’s no reason to accept open ones — just get them scheduled. A well-kept 2017–2018 car, non-turbo or with a healthy EcoBoost and every recall finished, is a lot of comfortable, good-looking sedan for the money.

Everything else is ordinary used-car stuff: brakes, fluids, a possible transmission service on the 6F35, and a 12V battery here and there.

How this file is built: failure modes and cost ranges are compiled from NHTSA complaint, recall, and TSB data, Ford’s own recall and warranty-extension actions, and owner reporting, then sanity-checked against shop-floor experience. Cost figures are independent-shop estimates and vary by region. Spot something off? Tell us.

Viral car myths, checked

Frequently asked questions

Which Ford Fusion years should I avoid?

The 2013 and 2014 cars draw the most complaints, and that's also the era of the 1.6L EcoBoost cylinder-head/fire recall and early 1.5L coolant-intrusion engines. They're not all bad, but on those years you must verify the engine is healthy and the recalls are closed. Later 2017–2018 cars with recalls done are the safer used buy.

What is the EcoBoost coolant intrusion problem?

On the turbocharged 1.5L, 1.6L, and 2.0L EcoBoost engines, the open-deck block design can let coolant seep into a cylinder. That causes misfires, overheating, and eventually engine failure. The tell is coolant that disappears with no leak under the car. Ford extended short-block coverage to 7 years / 84,000 miles on affected cars — check the VIN before buying or paying.

Is the non-turbo Fusion more reliable than the EcoBoost?

For pure durability, yes — the 2.5L naturally aspirated engine has no coolant-intrusion failure mode and is the simplest, cheapest to own. You give up power and some MPG, but you avoid the most expensive thing that goes wrong on this generation. The Fusion Hybrid is also a solid, intrusion-free choice.

Are the Ford Fusion recalls free to fix?

Yes. The front brake hose (23S12), the power-steering corrosion fix, and the roll-away shifter-cable bushing are all recall items a Ford dealer must repair free of charge. Run the VIN on Ford's or NHTSA's recall lookup and have any open recall closed before or right after you buy.

Is the Fusion Hybrid worth buying used?

Often yes. It skips the EcoBoost engine risk entirely and the power-split eCVT is durable. The main things to check are 12V battery health and any high-voltage battery warnings — a failing hybrid pack is the one expensive repair, so ask for battery history.