Ford Explorer (2011–2019): Problems, Reliability & Repair Costs

Symptoms: Slow, unexplained coolant loss with no external puddle (the pump weeps inside the engine). In the worst case, coolant gets past the seal into the oil — milky oil, like a blown head gasket — which can destroy the engine. Sometimes overheating or a low-coolant warning is the only clue.

Fix: The pump sits behind the front timing cover and is driven by the timing chain, so reaching it means tearing into the front of the engine — roughly 10.8 book hours on the N/A V6 and 12.3 on the EcoBoost. Replace the pump (and inspect the timing components while you're in there). If coolant already contaminated the oil, you may be looking at engine replacement ($5,000–$7,000), which can total an older one.

Sources: The Autopian — Ford internal water pump design, Ford Explorer Forums — water pump replacement, RepairPal — Explorer water pump cost

Symptoms: A hot, burnt or 'propane'-like smell in the cabin after driving (overheated fluid vented onto the hot exhaust), a speed-dependent whine or growl that rises with speed, grinding or clunking on acceleration and turns, and a dark, thick fluid leak on the passenger side at the back of the engine. Left alone it can seize and damage the transmission.

Fix: The PTU holds less than a quart of so-called 'lifetime' gear oil and sits jammed against the transmission and catalytic converter, so heat cooks the fluid and it never gets changed. Replace the unit (and its seals); the real fix going forward is servicing the PTU fluid roughly every 30k miles with full-synthetic 75W-140 to keep a healthy unit alive.

Sources: Go-Parts — Ford PTU failure guide, Ford Explorer Forums — signs PTU is failing

Symptoms: Exhaust smell inside the cabin, most noticeable under hard acceleration with the windows up and the climate system recirculating. Owners reported headaches, nausea, and lightheadedness; the issue drew thousands of complaints and a multi-year federal investigation.

Fix: NHTSA reviewed ~6,500 complaints across 2011–2017 (with 2018 reports too) and closed the probe without a recall, finding measured CO levels below health standards in properly sealed vehicles. Ford's service response: inspect/seal rear liftgate gaskets and drain valves, fix any leaks, and reprogram the HVAC to bring in more fresh air. The worst odor cases traced to rear-crash sealing damage or aftermarket upfitting (police units).

Sources: CBS News — Explorer carbon monoxide complaints, Torque News — NHTSA closes exhaust-leak probe

Symptoms: Hesitation or sluggishness from a rolling stop followed by a harsh bump or slip as it engages, plus hard or jerky shifts and occasional slipping. Transmission is the most-complained-about system on the generation.

Fix: Many cases are a known valve-body design issue (addressed by a separator-plate/check-ball modification or a revised valve body) plus a fluid service. Neglected fluid that overheats can escalate to internal damage and a rebuild, which is the high end of the range.

Sources: Transmission Repair Cost Guide — Explorer, Lemon Law Group Partners — Explorer transmission

Symptoms: A clunk from the rear, unusual handling, or a rear wheel that looks misaligned. A fractured toe link can cause loss of steering control. Corrosion of the rear cross-axis ball joints (worse in road-salt regions) stresses the welds until they crack.

Fix: Covered by multiple Ford recalls across these years — check the VIN; recall repair is free at a dealer. Outside recall coverage, replacing the toe links and an alignment is the fix. Always confirm the recall status before buying.

Sources: Cars.com — Explorer toe-link recall, Consumer Reports — Explorer suspension recall

Symptoms: Door-ajar light stays on with all doors closed, which also keeps the dome light on and can drain the battery. Caused by a worn door latch/ajar switch — usually a single door, often a rear one.

Fix: Replace the failing door latch assembly (which contains the ajar switch). A common, well-documented fix; identify the offending door first by working each latch by hand.

Sources: Ford Explorer Forums — door-ajar solved, StartMyCar — Explorer door problems

Tools: Floor jack + jack stands, Socket/Allen set for the fill and drain plugs, Fluid pump or squeeze bottle, Drain pan

1. Warm the vehicle briefly, then raise and support it level on jack stands.
2. Locate the PTU at the back of the transmission on the passenger side; clean around the fill and drain plugs.
3. Remove the fill plug FIRST (so you know you can refill), then the drain plug, and let the old fluid drain — expect it dark and smelly if overdue.
4. Reinstall the drain plug to spec, then pump in full-synthetic 75W-140 until it just reaches the fill hole.
5. Reinstall the fill plug, lower the car, and recheck for leaks. Repeat roughly every 30,000 miles.

Tools: Trim/panel removal tools, Torx + socket set, Painter's tape (to mark connectors)

1. Identify the offending door by cycling each latch by hand and watching the dash warning.
2. Remove the interior door panel and peel back the moisture barrier.
3. Disconnect the latch wiring and linkage, then unbolt the latch from the door's rear edge.
4. Install the new latch, reconnect linkage and wiring, and verify the door-ajar light goes out before reassembling.
5. Reinstall the moisture barrier and door panel.

Tools: Screwdriver (cabin filter cover)

1. Open the glovebox, release the stops to drop it down, and remove the cabin filter cover.
2. Slide out the old cabin filter and insert the new one with the airflow arrow pointing the correct way.
3. For the engine filter, unclip the airbox lid, drop in the new panel filter, and re-clip the lid.