Skip to content
CarCaseFile

Ford · 3rd gen (C520) · 2013–2019

Ford Escape (2013–2019): Problems, Reliability & Repair Costs

The third-gen Escape sold in huge numbers and drives nicely, but it carries two expensive, well-documented liabilities: the EcoBoost coolant-intrusion problem (coolant seeps into the cylinders, causing misfires, overheating, and in the worst cases engine fires) and a fragile 6F35 automatic that shudders and fails. Early 2013–2014 cars are the riskiest. Buy a clean later one with the right engine and it's fine; buy carelessly and you're facing a $4,000 engine or transmission.

4/10 CarCaseFile
reliability score

Engines

  • 1.6L EcoBoost (JTBA) — 1.6L gasoline, 178 hp
  • 2.0L EcoBoost (R9DA) — 2.0L gasoline, 240 hp
  • 2.5L Duratec (iVCT) — 2.5L gasoline, 168 hp
  • 1.5L EcoBoost — 1.5L gasoline, 179 hp

Transmissions

  • 6F35 — automatic, 6-speed

Drivetrain

FWD / AWD

Body

SUV (5-door)

Should you buy a 2013–2019 Ford Escape?

Buy only with eyes open. The 2.5L non-turbo cars are the safe pick — no EcoBoost coolant-intrusion exposure and the simplest powertrain. If you want an EcoBoost (most of them are), pick a later 1.5L or 2.0L, demand records, and confirm the coolant level holds and there's no white exhaust or unexplained misfire. On every year, the 6F35 transmission is the other shoe — test for shudder and harsh shifts hard. Avoid 2013–2014 unless the price reflects the risk; those are the worst years for both the engine and the transmission.

Best years

2017, 2018, 2019

Years to avoid

2013 (worst year — engine-fire recalls + transmission failures), 2014 (transmission failures peak ~70k mi), Any 1.6L EcoBoost unless coolant-intrusion history is documented clean

Pre-purchase inspection checklist

  • ☐Identify the engine first. 2.5L (non-turbo) is lowest-risk; 1.6L EcoBoost is highest-risk. Open the cap and check for the engine code.
  • ☐On any EcoBoost: check the coolant reservoir level and look for unexplained coolant loss, white/sweet-smelling exhaust, or a rough cold idle — the coolant-intrusion tells.
  • ☐Run the VIN through NHTSA and a Ford dealer for open recalls — early 1.6L cars had multiple fire-related recalls; confirm the fixes were performed.
  • ☐Test-drive at highway speed and feel for a shimmy/shudder around 40–55 mph and on light throttle — classic 6F35 torque-converter shudder.
  • ☐Force a few stop-and-go shifts; harsh banging, slipping, or hesitation points to a failing transmission.
  • ☐Check that all four doors latch firmly — a generation-wide door-latch recall covered pawl-spring breakage that let doors pop open.
  • ☐Confirm the power steering feels normal at all speeds; EPAS (electric power steering) failure is a common, ~$1,500 complaint on these.

Common Ford Escape problems & repair costs

EcoBoost coolant intrusion / engine fires

$3,000–$7,000
engine safety 2013–2019 (EcoBoost engines: 1.6L, 2.0L, 1.5L) ~varies; many under 100k mi

Symptoms: Slowly disappearing coolant with no external puddle, rough running or misfire (cylinder fills with coolant), overheating, white sweet-smelling exhaust. Worst case: coolant evaporating on a hot engine has ignited and caused engine-bay fires. Early 1.6L cars had a separate fire risk from a dislodged cylinder-head cup plug.

Fix: First check open recalls — early 1.6L Escapes were recalled for the cup-plug/fire issue and Ford performed coolant-system fixes. Where coolant has entered a cylinder, the realistic repair is a short-block or full engine replacement. Some owners pursued the EcoBoost coolant-intrusion class action; coverage on any given car varies.

Sources: NHTSA recalls/complaints — 2013 Ford Escape, ClassAction.org — Ford EcoBoost coolant/overheating, Green Car Reports — Escape 1.6L EcoBoost recall roundup

6F35 automatic transmission shudder & failure

$3,200–$5,500
transmission severe 2013–2019 (worst 2013–2014) ~70k–85k mi

Symptoms: Torque-converter shudder/vibration at highway speed and on light throttle, harsh or banging shifts, slipping, hesitation, warning lights, and in the worst reports the car losing drive entirely on the road.

Fix: Catch early: a fluid service and TCM recalibration can quiet mild shudder. Once friction material is gone or metal is in the fluid, the fix is a rebuilt or remanufactured 6F35 (commonly $3,200–$4,500 for the unit, more with torque converter and labor). Dealer trans-and-converter jobs have run toward $8k.

Sources: CarComplaints — 2013 Escape transmission failure, FordProblems — 3rd-gen Escape problems

Electric power steering (EPAS) failure

$1,000–$1,800
steering safety 2013–2019 ~~60k–80k mi

Symptoms: Sudden loss of power-steering assist — wheel goes heavy — often with a 'power steering assist fault' warning. Intermittent at first for some owners.

Fix: Diagnose the cause; the common fix is replacing the electric steering rack/EPAS unit (or, on some, the steering column/sensor). Check for any applicable Ford service action by VIN before paying out of pocket.

Sources: CarComplaints — 2013 Escape steering, FordProblems — 3rd-gen Escape problems

Door-latch pawl-spring breakage (recall)

$0–$300
body safety 2013–2015 ~any

Symptoms: A door that won't stay latched, or that appears closed but isn't — and can open while driving. Caused by a broken pawl spring inside the latch.

Fix: Covered by a large Ford recall — affected latches were replaced free. Confirm the recall work was done by VIN; out of coverage, it's a per-door latch replacement.

Sources: Ford recall details — Escape, CarComplaints — 2013 Escape recalls

Engine stalling while driving

$300–$1,200
engine moderate 2013–2014 ~~50k mi

Symptoms: Engine cuts out or shuts down while driving, sometimes with a check-engine light; frequently tied back to the EcoBoost cooling/overheating issues or related sensor faults.

Fix: Diagnose the trigger — could be the coolant-intrusion chain of events, a sensor, or fuel-delivery fault. Address any open recalls first, as several stalling reports trace to the same cooling defect.

Sources: CarComplaints — 2013 Escape engine, FordProblems — 3rd-gen Escape problems

The big two — a coolant-intruded EcoBoost or a failed 6F35 — are the line items that decide whether this Escape is cheap or ruinous to own, and either can hit $3,000–$7,000. Outside of those, running costs are ordinary compact-SUV stuff: brakes, tires, the occasional sensor, and routine service. Parts are plentiful and cheap because Ford sold so many. The smartest money move is buying the lowest-risk powertrain (2.5L non-turbo) and staying religious about transmission-fluid service to keep the 6F35 alive.

DIY repairs & parts

Replace the engine air filter & cabin air filter

easy 20–30 min saves ~$60–$120

Tools: Flat screwdriver (airbox clips), Shop towel

  1. Pop the airbox clips on the engine air filter housing and lift the lid.
  2. Remove the old panel filter, note its orientation, and drop the new one in.
  3. Re-clip the airbox lid securely.
  4. For the cabin filter, open the glovebox, release the side stops to drop it down, and pull the filter cover behind it.
  5. Slide out the old cabin filter and insert the new one with the airflow arrow pointing the correct way.

Parts

Transmission fluid drain & fill (6F35 maintenance)

moderate 1–1.5 hrs saves ~$120–$250

Tools: Floor jack + jack stands, Socket set + Torx bits, Fluid pump / funnel, Drain pan

  1. Warm the transmission to operating temp, then safely raise and level the vehicle.
  2. Remove the drain plug (or pan) and drain the old fluid, measuring what comes out.
  3. Reinstall the drain plug with a new crush washer, or refit the pan with a new gasket and filter.
  4. Refill with the exact Mercon-LV-spec fluid, matching the drained quantity through the fill port.
  5. Check level per Ford's temperature-based procedure, then road-test for smooth shifts.

Parts

Replace spark plugs (EcoBoost)

moderate 1–2 hrs saves ~$120–$220

Tools: Spark plug socket + extension, Torque wrench, Ratchet set, Dielectric grease

  1. Let the engine cool fully, then remove the engine cover and any intake piping in the way.
  2. Unbolt and lift each coil-on-plug, labeling them by cylinder.
  3. Remove each old plug, check it for coolant fouling (a coolant-intrusion warning sign), and gap the new plugs to spec.
  4. Thread new plugs in by hand, then torque to the EcoBoost spec — do not overtighten the aluminum head.
  5. Refit the coils with a little dielectric grease, reinstall the cover and piping, and start to confirm a smooth idle.

Parts

Some parts links are affiliate links — we may earn a commission at no cost to you. We only list parts that fit this generation.

The short version

The 2013–2019 Ford Escape is a genuinely pleasant SUV to drive that comes with two genuinely expensive ways to lose money. The first is the EcoBoost coolant-intrusion problem: on the turbocharged 1.6L, 2.0L, and 1.5L engines, coolant can find its way into the cylinders, causing misfires, overheating, and — in the worst documented cases — engine-bay fires. The early 1.6L cars were recalled multiple times for fire risk, and the broader defect became the subject of class-action litigation.

The second is the 6F35 six-speed automatic, the only transmission this generation uses. It’s prone to torque-converter shudder and to failing outright, most often on 2013–2014 cars and frequently around 70,000–80,000 miles. The average transmission repair runs about $4,400.

What that means when you’re shopping

Start by identifying the engine. The 2.5L non-turbo (base S trim) is the low-risk choice — no EcoBoost coolant exposure, simplest design. Most Escapes are EcoBoosts, though, so if that’s what you’re looking at, pick a later 1.5L or 2.0L, demand maintenance records, and confirm the coolant level holds with no white exhaust, sweet smell, or rough cold idle.

Then test the transmission like you mean it. Get it to highway speed and feel for a shimmy around 40–55 mph; force some stop-and-go shifts and watch for banging, slipping, or hesitation. A car that shudders is telling you the bill is coming.

Run the VIN through NHTSA and a Ford dealer for open recalls — the early 1.6L fire recalls and the generation-wide door-latch recall both matter, and you want the fixes confirmed. Everything else is ordinary compact-SUV ownership: brakes, tires, the odd sensor, and an electric-steering unit that occasionally quits. Avoid 2013–2014 unless the price already reflects the risk.

How this file is built: failure modes and cost ranges are compiled from NHTSA complaint and recall data, CarComplaints and FordProblems reporting, Ford’s own recall actions, EcoBoost coolant-intrusion litigation coverage, and owner-forum experience, then sanity-checked against shop-floor reality. Cost figures are independent-shop estimates and vary by region. Spot something off? Tell us.

Viral car myths, checked

Frequently asked questions

Which Ford Escape years should I avoid?

2013 and 2014 are the years to avoid. The 2013 was recalled multiple times early on (including for engine fires), and both years have the highest rate of 6F35 transmission failures, which tend to hit around 70,000–80,000 miles. Later 2017–2019 cars are the safer used buy.

What is the EcoBoost coolant-intrusion problem?

On Ford's EcoBoost four-cylinders (1.5L, 1.6L, 2.0L), coolant can seep into the cylinders, causing misfires, overheating, and in some cases engine fires. It became the subject of multiple recalls on early 1.6L Escapes and broader class-action litigation. On any EcoBoost Escape, check that coolant level holds and there's no white exhaust or unexplained misfire before buying.

Is the Ford Escape transmission reliable?

The 6F35 six-speed automatic is the weak point across this whole generation. Torque-converter shudder and outright failure are common, with average repair costs around $4,400 near 77,000 miles. Regular transmission-fluid service helps, but test hard for shudder and harsh shifts before you buy.

Which Escape engine is the most reliable?

The 2.5L naturally aspirated Duratec in the base S trim. It's slower and thirstier than the turbos, but it has no EcoBoost coolant-intrusion exposure and the simplest design. If you want low risk, that's the engine to find.